This is a beautiful short film about Gerry Lopez discussing his first time surfing Uluwatu in 1974, leading a yoga class, and following the contemporary cleanup effort on the island.
It contains this gem:
I’ve come to understand that yoga comes into people’s lives exactly when its supposed to. I didn’t realize it at the time, that it was my time to connect with yoga.
Then I started to see that there was something much deeper about surfing than I had originally thought. I mean, obviously there was something way deep about yoga, because there it was—it goes back for years. But I thought about it more and more and thought, maybe, they’re the same. Maybe what yoga and surfing are trying to do is tap into exactly the same energy; the prana or the mana. And the Hawaiians were doing it through surfing and the yogis were doing it by breathing. And one of my purposes was to understand that surfing and yoga were kind of the same.
Of course, it sounds much better when he says it over footage of him surfing clean overhead waves like he’s just waking up.
Original article, video, and more pictures are here: The Cleanest Line
Enjoy.
Leave a Reply